Hair Story

One of the few things I am enjoying about teaching my Speciality Course this semester is introducing students to issues that are unique to Black women's identity and body politics such as Black skin and Black hair. Much has been written and said about these topics--especially about good/bad hair and the light/dark skin conflicts in various spaces and places within not just historical, but contemporary American culture.

Every Black woman I know has a "hair story" or two (or a million). Stories about trying to find a good stylist. Stories of hair coming out and breaking off after a "bad perm." Stories of braids too tight--stories of an unexpected downpour and an unexpected afro. Stories of being in school and having their hair touched and pulled for being "weird" or "different" or "nappy." Stories that represent wonderful memories of being around other Black women--in salons, in kitchens, in dorm rooms--as hair was being braided, styled, dried, fried and laid to the side. Some stories will make you cry--other will make you laugh. I love Black women's hair stories. I love seeing a sistah fresh out of the salon with that extra bounce in her step because her hair is "on point." I don't believe that just because a sistah has a relaxer or uses other chemical straighteners that she is trying to subscribe to European aesthetics, nor do I believe that every Black women who has a fro is "down" for Black people and Black politics. At the end of the day, many Black women rock their hairstyle because it works for them. And we all have a hair story to tell you why.

For me, one of my many hair stories has been my on and off relationship with chemicals. As a child my hair was braided and plaited by my godmother. Afte she moved away, it was pressed with a hotcomb for a while but I HATED that with a passion. So my mother, not really knowing how to deal with my natural hair--which has much tighter unruly curls than her own--decided that it was time for me to get my first relaxer. And the experience was actually good. My first few stylists were excellent about hair care and never over processed my hair. But as I grew older, my hair began to thin and break as my stylists changed, my hormones changed, and the levels of stress and activity in my life grew. So during grad school when my hair was at its worst, I decided to "go natural." I did the big chop and loved it. My teeny tiny fro was a shock for many. But it was so liberating for me. While my reasons for doing it weren't political, I suddenly felt unburdened by my hair. Being able to wake up in the morning and just rub some oil or lotion on my hair was amazing.



Then it started to grow. And grow. And I freaked out. It was tough to comb--impossible to style and always dry. I tried twists but the stuff the stylist used made my scalp itch. Just a couple days without a clear style and it would begin to loc. So I went back to a less harsh chemical--a mild texturizer--during my dissertation year. But I've reached a phase where I'm dissatisfied with that decision and have rededicated myself to learning how to be good to my natural hair. I really want to be like yvette and be able to teach my daughters how to love and take care of their hair (I'll have to find her post about her hair ritual with her daughters--one of my favs). So I'm growing out my texturizer once again. I probably won't do a big chop this time because that would cause my mother to have a pre-wedding heart attack. But before I get married, my goal is to have a healthy napptural head of hair using healthy products to maintain it.

One site that I've been reading discusses the chemicals commonly found in hair shampoos and conditioners. And regardless of your ethnicity, it definitely presents a compelling case for avoiding a lot of the products found on the shelf. Some of these products include (from Nappturality.com):

ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac.


MINERAL OIL & PETROLATUM: The best baby oil is made from almonds. But the oil which being sold as baby oil is 100% mineral oil. Mineral oil is a
derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid
and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap.




SODIUM LAURYL SUFATE (SLS) & SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES): SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. Yet both SLS and SLES are used more widely as one of the major ingredients in cosmetics, toothpaste, hair conditioner and about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam. They are used in personal-care products because they are cheap. A small amount generates a large amount of foam, and when salt is added it thicken to give the illusion of being thick and concentrated. (SOME OF THE NITROSATING AGENTS ARE: SLS, SLES, DEA, TEA, MEA). Shampooing the hair with a product contaminated with these substances can lead to its absorption into the body at levels much higher than eating nitrite-contaminated foods.Mark Fearer in an article, Dangerous Beauty, says, "...in tests, animals that were exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, along with depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and
corrosion and death."

After reading this and looking at all of the synthetic compounds in my old hair products, I decided that I'm not being good to my hair if I stop using relaxers and texturizers but still use shampoos and other products that still have harsh chemicals. I've flirted with natural products before and love Carol's Daughter, but since I don't live in New York or in a city with a Sephora, I can only get her products online.

My cousin, who is a doctor of naturopathic medicine, suggested that I try Aubrey Organics--a line of personal care products that is available at local markets and vitamin stores. And I must say, for the first time, I finally feel like I am truly being good to my hair. Right now I'm using HoneySuckle Rose. I love the way my hair smells after it is washed and conditioned--sweet, soft, and clean. I must admit, when I was younger, I envied that some girls hair would smell like strawberries or something floral. My hair, laden with all types of products, always just smelled like hair grease, or pink lotion, or oil sheen. Now, just using natural products and pure oils, my hair smells wonderful, and I immediately noticed a difference. I use some of Carol's Daughter's styling aids, such as Hair Milk and Hair Honey (which smells so yummy), but I'm thinking about experimenting with Aubrey's Mandarin Magic Ginkgo Leaf & Ginseng Root Hair Moisturizing Jelly and Leave-In Conditioner and Curl Activator (although I have a feeling this one may not smell so nice).

So tonight, after washing my hair and filling my place with the soft aroma of honeysuckle and rose, I thought I'd share one of my hair stories as I've alluded to my hair and body issues without discussing them. This is just one strand of the story of course. But it feels good to write about this journey of learning to be good to myself and good to my hair.